Wunderbar!
Sunday, November 13th, 2011It’s all about authenticity
by Christopher Key
As those of you who have followed this blog for a while know, it has grown rather organically from what was originally imagined. I started with theatrical reviews, soon added music, then ballet and opera, even a ride in a World War II airplane. Once again, I intend to boldly split infinitives that have never been split before. Welcome to my first restaurant review.
I am on somewhat safer ground here than when I ventured into reviewing ballet and opera since I have a somewhat deeper appreciation for good food than most. During a catastrophic illness some years ago, I took my nutrition through a stomach tube for several months. Trust me, food takes on a whole new meaning after an experience like that.
So when my long-time barber Wally Whaley asked me to review his wife’s new restaurant and deli in Lynden, I didn’t turn a hair. So to speak.
Renate’s German Deli is located at 312 Front Street in Lynden and brings a new level of authenticity to German cuisine in this area. Not that there’s much competition. While there are Mexican, Chinese, Italian and Thai restaurants by the dozen, those who know and appreciate German food have usually had to go to Vancouver, BC, or Seattle to satisfy their cravings.
Renate and Wally have done an outstanding job converting the storefront space into a welcoming and comfortable environment. The beer and wine license had not quite come through when I was there last week, but the lovely granite-topped bar just screams gemütlichkeit.
As much as I was tempted by the various wurst dishes on the menu, I knew that schnitzel was the true test. The pork schnitzel was as good as I’ve had anywhere, with a perfectly crisp breaded outside and tender meat inside. It comes with some snappy stone ground mustard in the best German tradition.
But the true test of a good German restaurant, for me, is warmer kartoffelsalat. That’s the iconic German hot potato salad that is one of the greatest comfort foods ever conceived. Renate’s version has a subtle tang of vinegar and lots of bacon. Real bacon, not the kind that comes in bottles. Jawohl!
Also very traditional is rotkohl, red cabbage, and it should be redolent of cloves and bay leaves. Renate scores again. Some substantial rye bread accompanies the meal and, again, it’s the real deal.
The word “hearty” is probably overused when it comes to describing German food and it’s something of an understatement. It’s filling, fattening, high in carbs and cholesterol, and completely wonderful. Renate’s makes no pretensions toward serving food that will appeal to vegans or dieters and that is refreshing in a world that seems devoted to gastronomic political correctness.
Renate’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and also offers a deli case full of meats, cheeses and other delights that are not to be found anywhere else between Vancouver and Seattle. She even has marzipan, which ranks right up there with chocolate in my food pantheon. As a Bellinghamster, it takes a lot of motivation for me to drive to Lynden for dinner.
You vill go to Renate’s und you vill like it!
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